If your water heater is making rumbling or sizzling noises, it may be due to sediment buildup in the tank. Try flushing the tank according to the manufacturer’s instructions to remove sediment.
If your electric water heater produces lukewarm water or runs out of hot water faster than usual, one or both of its heating elements may have failed. Replacements are inexpensive (about $20) and readily available at home centers or hardware stores. Contact Denver Water Heater Repair for professional help.
The first step in troubleshooting a water heater is to determine whether the problem is recent or has been persistent. For example, a sudden loss of hot water suggests a problem with the heating element or circuit breaker; a steady decrease in temperature might point to sediment build-up. In either case, determining the cause will help you decide whether to make repairs yourself or enlist the services of a professional.
If your electric water heater isn’t heating water, it may be due to a simple power issue, such as a blown fuse or a tripped circuit breaker. Check your service panel to see if the breaker or fuse has been switched to the “Off” position, and flip it back on. If the heater is still not heating water, there could be another electrical problem, such as a faulty lower thermostat or transfer switch, that requires further troubleshooting.
A gas water heater can also fail to produce hot water if it’s experiencing a problem with the pilot light or temperature pressure relief valve. Check the pilot light to ensure it’s lighted and that it’s burning correctly; if it isn’t, relight it per the manufacturer’s instructions. Then, test the temperature and pressure relief valve to make sure it’s functioning properly by lifting it and releasing water.
If you find that your water heater is producing a lot of hot water, but isn’t getting warm or even scalding, it might be suffering from a problem with the heating elements. You can troubleshoot this by examining the elements for signs of damage, or, as Sears recommends, using a multimeter to test resistance across terminal 4 on the upper thermostat and terminal 4 on the high-temperature limit switch.
Draining the Tank
Most water heaters have a large, insulated tank that holds your hot water supply. Over time, minerals in your home’s water and sand and grit flushed from municipal water lines can settle in the bottom of the tank, leading to a build-up of sediment that can affect performance, capacity and longevity. You can extend your tank’s life span by draining it regularly to remove this sediment.
Start by shutting off your water valve at the tank’s bottom opening. It may have a knob you can turn, but if not, insert a screwdriver into the valve opening and rotate it counterclockwise to close it. Next, get a bucket to catch the water that will be draining out of the valve spout. You may need to empty the bucket periodically as more and more water drains out of the tank. You can also use multiple buckets if you want to be extra prepared.
Finally, attach a standard water hose to the drain valve and direct it to a floor drain in your garage, utility closet or attic. Turn on the hot water tap closest to the tank and open a cold water faucet on the floor above it (the water will be scalding, so take care).
You’ll need a pair of heavy-duty rubber work gloves and safety glasses for protection from splashes. A rubber hose works best, but you can use an old one from your garage or a neighbor’s house. When the water in the tank is completely drained, close the drain valve, reconnect the hose and open the water valve at the top of the tank to refill it. Once the tank has refilled, you can open the gas valve on your water heater and the electric breaker switch if you have an electric model.
Relighting the Pilot Light
Some gas hot water heaters still use a standing pilot flame that ignites the main burner when heat is needed. Several things can cause the pilot light to extinguish, including a dirty thermocouple or a fluctuation in gas pressure. If the pilot light has simply gone out, it can usually be re-lit easily as part of regular maintenance.
However, if the pilot flame goes out again and again, it’s likely because there is another problem with your water heater that will require professional help. In most cases, repeated pilot outages are caused by a bent thermocouple. It’s a small copper wire and rod that detects the pilot flame and turns off the gas supply when it senses that the flame is out. If the probe is misaligned or covered in dirt, it can mistakenly shut off gas to your water heater, thinking the pilot light has burned out.
Before relighting the pilot light, turn off the gas supply valve to your water heater and wait 5 minutes to allow any leftover gas to dissipate. While you wait, make sure the area around your water heater is well-ventilated to prevent a build-up of gas. Find your water heater’s manual to learn the specific steps for your particular model, and be sure to follow all safety instructions closely.
Once the area is ventilated, find your gas control knob and turn it toward the label that says pilot. While holding the knob down, use a lighter to relight the pilot light. After the flame lights, hold the knob down for a minute and slowly release it to ensure that the pilot light remains lit. Then, turn the gas back on and replace any covers.
Replacing the Element
The element is what heats the water inside the tank. It’s located at the bottom of the electric model and, like other components in an electric water heater, it may go bad over time. When this happens, the circuit breaker might trip or you won’t have any hot water. If the element is faulty, a replacement is necessary to get your water heater back up and running.
You’ll need a wrench to remove the old element, and an adjustable wrench to install the new one. The process is a little different than removing a light bulb, but once you have the right tools and know-how, it’s not difficult.
Shut OFF the power to your water heater at the circuit breaker and shut off the cold-water supply valve at the top of the tank (close a nearby faucet to allow air into the tank). Open the drain valve on the water heater and run a hose from it to a floor drain, to drain the water from the tank.
Fold back the insulation covering the heating element terminal block, then use a socket wrench to loosen and disconnect the black and white wires from the terminal screws. Test to make sure the circuit is dead by using a multimeter or non-contact circuit tester.
Purchase a new element at your local plumbing supply center or hardware store. Be sure to get the same voltage and wattage as your old element, and check that the new one fits the diameter of the tank opening, too. Coat the new gasket with pipe-joint compound and slide it over the element. Screw the element into place, tightening it clockwise. Then, reattach the black and white wires to the terminals, and close the drain valve and cold-water inlet valve.
Replacing the Thermostat
If you see a pool of water at the bottom of your heater, or have no hot water at all, your heating elements may be bad. You will have to drain the tank and replace them if you want hot water again. Fortunately, if the problems aren’t serious, you can perform this repair yourself for about $50.
First, turn off the power to your water heater. Switch the breaker to “off” and remove the panel(s) that covers the thermostats, as well as the plastic safety cover. Use a voltmeter to confirm that the power is indeed off. Remove the insulation panels to expose the upper and lower thermostats.
Using a screwdriver, adjust the heat setting on both thermostats to a higher temperature (for a hotter shower) or a lower temperature for warmer water. If the water still doesn’t come on, the problem may be with the thermostats or the cutoff switch, which you can test and replace yourself if needed.
If you’re replacing the thermostat, make sure to get the same model, as it’s not always possible to interchange them. Then, disconnect the wires from the old one. Make a note of the color-coded wires to eliminate confusion later when you reconnect them. Next, remove the holding bracket from the thermostat and pry it out. Once it’s out, locate the new thermostat and slide it into place evenly in the bracket. Using the labels you made earlier, re-connect the wires. When the job is complete, re-install the insulation and access panels. Restart the power to your water heater and check that the breaker and switch are re-set. If they’re tripped again, it’s time to call a professional plumber.